After a late start off up the mountain due to bad weather we finshed the route late and had to sleep high, this was not good due to not being acclimatised properly, but it was well worth it to finish the route in an amazing sun set and cloud inversion.

After arriving in Chamonix this week the weather wasn’t the best for climbing, if I was here to ski then I would have been laughing, for this time of year the amount of snow still around and still falling was incredible, but me being me I was pretty determined that this wasn’t going to stop me at least attempting one of my attended routes. We spent most of Saturday prepping gear, eating cakes and drinking the local coffee, we planned on heading up high early the next morning to get a little acclimatising in and get ready for a harder climb later in the week. We woke early in the morning to be greeted with bad weather, the cloud was low and snow was falling pretty heavy, we waited for a while and decided to head up anyway as we needed to get acclimatised, we sorted gear and headed up, the cloud was low and visibility poor on the mountain, we waited for a while and eventually there was a break in the clouds so we roped up and headed down the midi arête, we only planned on strolling around the glacier to acclimatise but the adventurer in me wanted more, there is a route that climbs back up to the midi called the Cosmiques Arête, I had climbed this before but never in winter so after persuading my partner we decided to give it an attempt. We were starting late in the day so we had to move quickly. The snow was deep and the approach difficult, we simu climbed the majority of the route each taking the lead, about halfway along Julian’s crampon started playing up, it took a long time for him to sort it and by this time I was a little worried that we may not make down to the valley again tonight. Eventually we were on the move again, the climbing pretty easy but quite time consuming due to the amount of snow, we arrived at the crux and the climbing became a little harder, we pushed on through though, the time was now around 1700 and the last cable lift down was gone, we were now going to be spending the night at just under 4000m not acclimatised, we finished the last two pitches of the climb when the we were greeted with the most amazing cloud inversion and sunset, it was like heaven and for a short while we forget about the night that lay ahead. We eventually arrived at the summit and the station, we searched for an area and the found the warmest place possible. We didn’t sleep much, I was pretty sick and our heads were pounding due to lack of oxygen, the night dragged on and temperature was pretty low but we stuck in there and morning eventually arrived, we jumped on the first cable car down and spend most of the day resting up and restocking on food and drink. We plan on heading up again tomorrow to attempt the Pellisier route on pointe lachenal, this is allot harder and should test us a little more.

happy to be back on the hill

cosmiques Arete

Starting Ramp

Traversing the arete


mixed section

amazing sunset

happy alpinist

End to a good day