We Climbed another amazing route today, It was tough but we pulled it off, we also lost a rope trying to get off the route but with some scarey down climbing and extra anchors we eventually arrived at the base of the climb.

With a gap in the bad weather and snowfall dying down we decided to head up high again and look at the Pellisier Route on the East face of Pointe Lachenal, I have been looking at this route for a while now but never had chance to try it so I was pretty psyched to at least make an attempt if the conditions were right. We geared up and crossed the glacier as quick as possible, the walk across wasn’t too far but was hard work being on snow shoes rather than ski’s, every step we sunk to our knees, this made moving any distance fast very hard and also very tiring, after much effort we eventually arrived at the foot of the climb, the line looked amazing and seemed to be in great condition, I was so psyched and keen to get on it we didn’t wait around. I led on up the first pitch of route, it was a nice ice/mixed gulley, the climbing wasn’t too steep and felt fairly simple, after a short while I arrived at the belay, after setting up belay Julian soon followed on up. Julian then took the lead up the next pitch, we continued like this with most of the pitches being similar, on pitch 3 I made the mistake of putting an ice screw in my mouth to swap hands, with the low temperatures it froze to my lips, this wasn’t good when I had to take it out again, Julian asked at the belay where all the blood on the route had come from, it didn’t take him long to notice after taking a glimpse at my lips. Pitch 5 was the last pitch and crux, this was an overhanging section of rock, I was on lead so I pushed on, there seemed to be good axe placements but the feet were not the best, this meant the climbing was quite physical, I pushed on through and managed to reach the summit of the climb, I set up belay and shouted down to Julian to come on up, after a few puffs and shouts he eventually arrived at the belay with me, by this the time the weather had turned and we were suddenly in a whiteout, we took a couple of summit pictures, congratulated each other and decided to start abseiling the route. This all seemed to be going fine until the last abseil.. we pulled the rope through and somehow the end of the rope got stuck in a crack, there was no knot so for this to happen was such bad luck, we spent a good hour trying to free it, it wouldn’t work, by this time the weather had worsened and the light was fading, we considered climbing back up the route to free it but with the weather the way it was we decided to cut our losses and get down using one rope, this became more complicated than first expected but after an extra anchor and a bit of worrying down climbing we eventually arrived at the base of the climb again. We had a quick bite to eat and drink then made the hard walk back to the cosmiques hut for the evening, this was tough and took some time, we were in white out so navigation was tough and we were both pretty tired but eventually we arrived at the hut and was greeted with some warm food and drink.. After eating and a little chatting it wasn’t long before we were both snoring. Today we have decided to head back down to the valley as weathers not great again, this is not such a bad thing as it will give us time to recover and pick up more supplies should the weather become good again.

pellisier 1

pellisier 2

pellisier 3

pellisier 4

pellisier 5

pellisier 6

pellisier 7

pellisier 8

pellisier 9